Great climb but 50% success rate only!
By Bragabondio from Washington, DC on 3/4/2011
Pros: Group Camaraderie, Guides
Cons: Fitness of the group, Activity Level
Describe Yourself: Casual Adventurer
Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?: All the Details Planned for Me, I Liked the Itinerary
Book a private tour with the local sub-contractor / hire guide directly in case you would like to significantly improve your chances of reaching the summit. I tried in December 2011 with a group and we reached the infamous "hut". The guides, correctly in my opinion, decided that it is not safe to go further due to around 70 mph wind. In February 2011 I called REI for a private booking but they asked almost 3 times more than what the local company who is actually organizing the hike. Thus, on my second attempt I went with John (a super guide I met during the first climb who have climbed Everest in the past) and reached the summit relatively easy despite that the conditions were comparable or worst to the first attempt (60-80 mph wind and -33F with the wind chill).
The key to success is to get the wind after you reach Lions Head at your back or side. This can only be done if you check the forecast in advance and arrive at Lions Head at the right time. John did this trick for me but obviously if you are with a group you depend on the time of the slowest hiker. Carry summit size pack with the essential only. If you are wearing glasses take them before putting the ski mask. Finally, I noticed that all guides have enlarged significantly the mouth holes of their baklavas. That helps breathing a lot.
Guides are great, super fit and trying to be helpful as much as possible. However, do not expect a military discipline during the climb. There were some frequent stops where nobody knew how long the rest would be. On my second attempt the only rest we had was while changing equipment, i.e. snow shoes to crampons and for 5-10 min at the observatory and I felt much better as I did not have to worry about adding/taking out layers. Thus, in summary if you are fit you would be better off going with a guide only. If the social experience is more important than reaching the summit than go with the group.
